Delectable kebabs, fragrant biryani, and whipped, ethereal desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has forever been a food lovers' paradise, with inhabitants and tourists alike celebrating its superb cuisine.
A Global Honor
Recently, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization recognised it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – adding it to a exclusive list of world cities and kindling hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this title, it joins a global network of cities urban centers across more than 100 countries focused on promoting "artistic expression as a key factor of city development that is sustainable".
The honor "demonstrates its deep-rooted food heritage and vibrant gastronomic culture," as stated by a representative from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to find a place in this prestigious list of 70 cities internationally.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The accolade for this venerable city is no surprise to its inhabitants or avid food lovers. Many share the sentiment that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO accolade, this adored, chaotic, and vibrant city – the administrative center of India's most populous state – is now in the spotlight for what has perennially defined its essence: an unparalleled love for food.
"'What's for dinner, how should it be prepared' is a continued conversation from morning until going to bed in many homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are truly assessed by the standard of food that is produced in your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its historic affluent Muslim rulers – is famed for its succulent kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were conceived, refined, and elevated to exquisite levels in their opulent kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were hubs of gastronomic creativity, fusing Persian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were fashioned. Legend has it that the galouti kebab was devised to feed an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His chefs processed the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so fine that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the greatest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, leisurely heat, with the container's cover tightly closed with dough.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Besides the obvious kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also created a vast array of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a haven for vegetarians.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only highlights seasonal produce but also provides the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Virtually on many street corners, there are small establishments and stalls – little-known treasures that are immensely favored by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, throngs of people start gathering from the crack of dawn at a famous tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, presented in earthenware cups, along with incredibly soft buns slathered with hand-churned white butter.
To start the day, one can visit a unpretentious joint operating in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was established, the place is still much sought-after for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also boasts unique treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert found in the winter. The process of making it is scientific and involved. The artisan hand-churns the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its unique airy feel.
On cold mornings, street vendors are often seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of but say that their younger generation do not want to master the skill.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's rich food legacy places it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, however, will be realized only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – crafted by multi-generational food businesses, from humble street carts to lively restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is hoped, will inspire more people globally to explore these narratives and travel to the city to taste the food wonders of Lucknow.
